Batanes - Sabtang Island Adventure!

Batanes – Day 2

The chilling air conditioning system of our room awaken me way before my alarm starts. It was Day 2 of our Batanes trip. I hurriedly went to the shower and prepare myself for another journey – Sabtang Island; one of the three inhabited islands of Batanes along with Itbayat.

Map of Sabtang Island (courtesy of Municipal Tourism Information Center)

We arrived at Ivana Port before seven in the morning. After registering our names on the coastguard passengers list, we hopped at the second boat that will bring us to Sabtang Island. The sea was a little calmer than expected (luckily!). In less than 30 minutes, we arrived at Port of Sabtang where our next ride awaits.

Registration at Port of Ivana

We checked in at the Municipal Tourism Information Center, tried sipping ‘tubho’’ (Batanes’ native tea) and off we go on our Sabtang Island adventure!

the plant used to make 'tubho'

Day 2 Itinerary – Nakabuang Beach, Nakanmuan Community Tour, Vernacular houses, a quick mini lunch at town’s fiesta, Lunch by the beach, Tinyan Viewing of Pacific Ocean and Chavayan Community Tour.

Around 8:30 in the morning when we arrived at one of the most visited places in Sabtang - the Nakabuang Beach! Aside from its pristine cream-colored sand; one of the major attractions of this beach is the Mayahao Arch.

Mayahao Arch at Nakabuang Beach

And what better way to view it is at the top of the bouldering arch. I didn’t mind the sharp stones making a little scratch on my left foot because the view was breathtaking as I imagined it would be. The cool wind of the ocean matched with the blazing sun is tanning me to the hilt but I loved it nevertheless. After 15 minutes of admiring the view, I decided to go down and take another round of ‘groupies’, ‘selfies’ and the famous jump shots! The kid in me is starting to take control once again, forgive me. J

view from the top was just awesome!

Before we lost track of time, we continue our journey to Nakanmuan Community and visit some vernacular houses. I personally like the cemented bridge of Nakanmuan and the little grotto on the left side right after passing the bridge. The community was silent as if it was not inhabited. Surprisingly, there’s a little store selling refreshments and other stuff. In front of the store was a line of dried dorado’s adorning the ocean view and the nearby Ivuhos Island. It’s inviting me for some photo opts and who am I to refuse that?

local at Nakanmuan community

the cemented bridge of Nakanmuan

dorados lined up

the grotto by the bridge

We carry on with our walk encircling the small community passing through beautifully built vernacular houses one after another. The view on the other side offers the imposing ‘kakawahan’ (cliff) which is part of the Duvek Cove according to our guide. The mountaineer in me giggled at the very sight of it and I just jumped! (a subtle excuse for another jump shot!) Good thing the guide was quick enough to capture that ‘Kodak’ moment.

jump!

Our driver informed us along the way that Nakanmuan was celebrating their fiesta that day. With a little persistence from the group and a connection to back us up (our driver is also a barangay official, by the way), we were humbly accepted by Nakanmuan’s Barangay Chairman; Mr. Roderick Cultura and his wife. Our ‘pushiness’ paid off as we were treated to a sumptuous meal. There’s turmeric rice, ‘lunis’ (Batanes’ version of adobo), menudo, macaroni salad and 2 other dishes plus a refreshing coke! Actually, it’s not the meal that we’re after (really!) but the experience of having attended a local town fiesta which is unusual to us.

'Lunis', Batanes' version of adobo

the gang with Brgy. Captain Roderick Cultura

 By 12:30 in the afternoon, we feasted by the beach and got acquainted with ‘tatus’ which is popularly known as coconut crab. The tatus meat was surprisingly sweet (probably because of its main diet, the coconut). The entire lunch was well-spent with laughter, Dollar (the beach dog) and good food, of course. The coconut there was just full of juice! A great change from our usual “soda” party.

'Tatus' - coconut crab

It was past 2 in the afternoon when we arrived to one of my most favourite part of the tour, Tinyan viewing of the Pacific Ocean. The cool wind of the Pacific Ocean was just overwhelming. The place was surrounded with three coves, if my memory served me right. I was lost with the beauty surrounding me. It was calming and powerful at the same time. The sudden rain from the fields of Tinyan did not dampen our spirits while we rested on the small hut showcasing native baskets and vests used by the locals of Batanes. After a couple more minutes, the rain stopped....and the ‘kid party’ continues. I was literally jumping in excitement when I reached the other side of Tinyan. The coves below are just worthy of a good swim. Too bad, the weather was not sunny enough to allow us to dip in. Not to mention, the ascent to the cove was just too steep to some of my friends. There’ll be next time....

the perfect hang-out - Tinyan viewing!

our guide and my friend, Karen wearing the local costume

Twenty minutes right after we left Tinyan, we arrived on the last leg of our Sabtang tour; the community of Chavayan. The place was serene, just like the rest of the communities we’ve visited. The people are soft-spoken. The elders are courteously greeting us back, the kids are waving and smiling back at us and the boys are busy playing basketball. What really captured my attention, aside from the simple chapel of Sta. Rosa de Lima were the sharp-edged ridges of the mountains at the rightmost part of the island. It was captivating!

groupie at Chavayan

houses at Chavayan

Sta. Rosa de Lima Chapel at Chavayan 

that beautiful sharp ridges....wow!!!

There was this one vernacular house right beside the beach; which according to our guide was built specifically for tourists. More like a tourist spot where you could take your customary photo opt by the beach, if I may add. The waves are tempting us for some good plunge but I backed out. I was too cold from the winds of Tinyan. Another next time for me.....

groupie at the vernacular house by the beach

We arrived back by 6:30 and had our dinner by the beach. After taking our quickest dinner ever (the cold was not so tolerable anymore....brrrrr!!!!), we headed back to the Municipal Tourism Information Center where we’ll be spending the rest of the night. A worthy note for those planning to stay at Sabtang Island, the electricity supply operates from 6AM-12MN only.

dinner by the beach

To be continued....

Till then!

Batanes - A Dream Come True!

When asked what my dream destination would be, I would always say ---- Batanes. 

One day an officemate asked if I’d be willing to spend 8,000+ for a 2-way trip to the northernmost province of the Philippines, I said ‘Yes!’ without batting an eyelash. Not minding if I’d be able to pay it (purchased thru my officemate’s credit card) on time. From then on, I started dreaming....and now, it has become a reality.

Adra (my bag's name) is set to go!

We rounded up at NAIA Terminal 3 around 4am and have our bags checked in. My palms are sweating and I can’t stop tapping my feet. That’s how excited I was. I’ll be seeing Batanes in awhile. After a couple more hours, the flight attendant started calling our flight. This is it!

The flight took about one hour and forty-five minutes. I can see from the window the unfamiliar lighthouse, the green fields and the busy airport personnel. We just landed. I am in Batanes!

view of Batan Island from the plane

photo opt at Basco Airport terminal

It took us another 20 minutes or so while the airport personnel gather our baggage (they don’t have baggage conveyor). Amidst the absence of a conveyor, it was not chaotic finding our bags. Right after we retrieved all our baggage we went straight to our service van. In less than 10 minutes, we arrived at Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. Had ourselves checked in, took breakfast and endlessly surveyed the entire Basco view.

while waiting for our baggage

our home away from home

After our sumptuous meal at Octagon Bed and Dine (just right beside our hotel), our tour guide arrived and we started our Day 1 activity.

Day 1 itinerary – Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel, Radar Tukon, Dipnaysupuan Japanese tunnel, Valugan Boulder Beach, Sto. Domingo Church, Vayang Rolling Hills and Naidi Hills Lighthouse.

the contrast of Mt. Carmel's facade boulders and blue sky is just awesome!

stained glass at Mt. Carmel chapel

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel is also known as Tukon Chapel. According to our guide, tukon in Ivatan dialect means hill. By the way, the first Ivatan word I learned is ‘kuman’ which means eat (yeah, yeah....the ‘pig’ in me emerged!) Back to Tukon chapel, inside you’ll see painted ceilings of different saints adorning the serene beauty of the chapel. Stained glasses look dramatic especially when you peek at the right window to see the wonderful Mt. Iriya. Adding up to the chapel’s exquisite beauty was the facade. It was made of boulders and inspired by Ivatan stone houses.  

Right after Tukon chapel, we headed straight to Radar Tukon which is 5-10 minutes away. This was an old lighthouse and an abandoned United States weather station. Today, it is known as Basco PAGASA Station. Here you can see the panoramic 360-degree view of Batan island.

Radar Tukon

Next stop is the Dipnaysupuan Japanese tunnel. Constructed during the World War II by the Ivatans and made use of the Japanese forces, this complex tunnel has a super thick bunker for protection against falling bombs and other military attacks. It was cold and dark and creepy down there. My mind was running wild while we roam some passages of the tunnel.

entrance to the tunnel

the thick protection as viewed from inside the tunnel

at the lower ground tunnel...the creepy part.

After that scary tour of the tunnel, we rode all the way to one of the most famous beaches in Batan – the Valugan Boulder beach. From what I have gathered on televisions, blog sites and a small chit-chat from our guide; the boulders are the result of Mt. Iraya’s eruption in 1454 unleashing tons of rocks around Batan. Those rocks are then polished thru time by the endless strong waves coming from the Pacific Ocean. It was such a joy seeing those big waves splashing its rage on the boulders. The wet boulders glisten thru the sun rays and it was just awesome! It was an eye candy for a photographer like me. We stayed there for a couple more minutes and with a heavy heart returned to our van service to proceed to our destination.

Valugan Boulder beach sparkling like black diamonds!

We took a quick bite at SDCBI canteen and munch on some cakes and pastries, shared a snapshot of the beautifully old rose-painted walls of Basco Municipal Hall beside Basco Police Station. It was nice to see policemen not carrying any guns and handcuffs. It showed that people of Batanes are law-abiding citizens and that no harsh force is needed to apprehend criminals because there’s none.  

the blogger posing with the policemen of Basco. shy type?

the seven tourists at Basco Munical outside wall.

Next stop – to visit the oldest church in Batanes, the Cathedral of Sto. Domingo de Guzman. Also known as Basco Cathedral, the church was built in 1783 by Father Baltazar Calderon and Father Bartolome Artiguez. The church endured all known calamities such as earthquake, typhoons, Filipino-American war (1899-1901) and World War II (1941-1945). I say that’s one tough momma! Truly a remarkable church rich in heritage and history.

groupie at Sto. Domingo de Guzman

We were in awe when we reached Vayang and saw the vast Rolling Hills massively spreading its beauty of verdant grass. To top it off was the ocean surrounding it and to add more drama – the sun! It was like watching ‘Teletubbies’ minus the cute mascots. I can’t help but wonder, God must have stayed here a little longer. So as not to prolong my agony of taking pictures, I hit the shutter again and again until it almost run out of battery. Who would have thought that in this part of our country rest a place comparable to that of New Zealand and Ireland? I’m lost for words.

Vayang Rolling Hills

Last stop for the day, Naidi Hills Lighthouse. Also known as Basco Lighthouse, it was one of the three lighthouses in Batanes which was proposed by former Congressman Butch Abad to be an operational lighthouse and a tourist attraction. Its viewing deck is at the fifth floor of the 6-storey building with the grand view of Mount Iraya, Sabtang Island (S), Itbayat Island (N) and the entire Batan Island. Of course, I pushed myself and reached the sixth floor which holds the lighting facility of the lighthouse. The green wooden stairs leading to it was narrow and steep. After some 'selfie' shots with the lighting facility I hurried back to the viewing deck and took some more photos of my officemates and the view surrounding us.

Naidi Hills lighthouse

the 'selfie' shot inside the lighting facility

The sun is setting when we decided to call it a day. Tired and crazy hungry we headed to Octagon for our dinner. It was a delicious way to wrap the day off!

my dinner plate for Day 1

To be continued.....

Till then!

Mt. Iraya - The Shy One

As I’m packing my things the night of April 8, 2014, I never really expected that another dream of mine would come into reality. Who would have thought, Batanes and Mt. Iraya? Yay!

After our 3-day stay in Batanes (2 days in Batan and 1 day in Sabtang), my feet are now itching and ready for another climb. Our guide (Thank God we found one!), Kuya Ireneo “Neo” picked up my call late afternoon of April 11. It was not just an answered call but an answered prayer. We (I and Karen) were losing hope that we won’t be able to climb Mt. Iraya due to unavailability of guides in Basco. Luckily, our tour guide phoned someone and helps us secure our much-awaited climb for Saturday. We agreed to start the climb around 7 in the morning so we can still catch up with the rest of our non-climber friends who opted to go to the beach.

Saturday, 5AM.

Mt. Iraya as viewed from Fundacion Pacita

The alarm woke me up and instantly I’m on my feet. Gave Karen a text message and off to take a quick shower. Kuya Neo was already outside of Batanes Seaside Lodge together with our rented tricycle service.

We arrived at the jump off (near Basco Airport terminal) a minute before 7AM. We started our trek right after our usual “fresh look photo opt.” The first 20 minutes was a breeze passing thru some backyards and neighbourhoods at the feet of Mt. Iraya.

the blogger, Kuya Neo and Karen

After the easy trail came the sudden assault crossing ridges while the cool breeze are fanning on our faces. The ridges remind me of Mt. Arayat although this one is much lower. Thick vegetation would be an understatement if I am to describe the trail of Iraya. The trail is abundant of ferns and other flora that we not only tripped once. The sound of chirping birds made good melodies while we’re busy brushing off plants along the trail.

view of Valugan Boulder Beach from the trail

The trail is a bit ‘disturbed’ due to some climbers who has trekked Mt. Iraya the day before us. The ground is muddy and the mossy trees are moist with the dew coming from the clouds that constantly enveloped the summit. Fortunately for us, not a single drop of rain was present. 

the mossy part of the trail

After 2 hours of continuous climb, we reached a small flat ground which locals dubbed as ‘balikat ng Iraya’ (shoulder of Iraya). Sadly the view at the summit was not clear. It was covered with thick clouds and shying away from our admiring eyes.

view of summit from the shoulder of Iraya. see the trail?

We rested for 10 minutes before we proceed with the ‘close to 90 degrees’ summit assault. If I were to rate this part, it’ll be a 5/9 difficulty. The steep trail combined with thick vegetation made it harder to reach the summit. ‘An hour, an hour and I’ll be on top.’ I kept repeating that in my mind while grabbing every available branch to assist me.

hold on! this is one of your 'saving grace'

Forty five minutes later, we arrived at the summit. I made! We made it....safe and dry. Just like the view from the shoulder of Iraya, it was still cloudy and adorned with thick vegetation. We were so grateful that we were blessed with a good weather. If not for that, we would not have done it in less than 3 hours. Whew!

altimeter reading from my watch

Right after a little photo opt, we decided to stay for an hour before descending. We’re still hoping that the clouds will make way and give us a clear view of the entire Batanes including that of Itbayat. 45 minutes had passed and not a single view was seen. L Next time! I know there’ll be a next time.

at the summit landmark

If going up is hard....going down is much harder but we never falter. Armed with strong will and hungry stomach, slowing down is not an option! Good thing that Kuya Neo was very attentive and chatty the entire climb. It made the climb a lot easier.

The descent from summit to shoulder took us around 45-50 minutes and the descent from shoulder to jump off was around an hour and 30 minutes. It’s not how fast or slow we reached the summit and back but how safe and happy it made us. We were conquered by the majestic beauty of the shy Mt. Iraya.

We called our rented tricycle service (Kuya Elmer) to drop us off back to our hotel and bid our goodbye and thank you to Kuya Neo. He was such a good guide and would definitely recommend him to other climbers planning to climb Mt. Iraya.

It was nice to have met you. Dios mamajes, Iraya!

Until then!

Lucky 13: Mt. Damas (damn!)

13 don’t seem very lucky. Add it up with the scorching heat of Mt. Damas and I’m damned. I told myself time and time that this is but another climb. Little did I know that this will push me to my limits!

Right after going to a post graduation celebration in Pedro Gil, I hurried myself to 5 Star bus terminal in Cubao to make it on time. Tick tock! Luckily, I arrived 6 minutes past under the wire. Whew! I was literally running with a heavy 2-day pack on my back!

I’ve finally met Gilda and seven other climbers who will brave the blazing sun of Mt. Damas in San Clemente, Tarlac. From what I’ve read, the trail is considered moderate to hard but with the difficulty rating of 6/9, one should not underestimate this mountain towering 685 MASL.

The terminal was super crowded and the heat is unbearable. Adding up to our misery was the 20-minute waiting time (which seemed forever to me) for our bus to arrive and it’s not even an air conditioned one!

By 2320, our journey to Camiling began. Around 0300, we arrived at Camiling Public Market where we are to meet our event host, Ka Gerald and two more climbers. We waited until 0400 before we grab a quick breakfast right across an eatery (Eat to Go Eatery). Right after breakfast, we finalized distribution of load for our 2-day itinerary. What came as a surprised and a blessing was the jeepney waiting beside 7-11. After bargaining with the driver for a 600-peso one way trip, we found ourselves at Papaac jump off 45 minutes later.

We started the trek while the sun was still pretty much forgiving. Nevertheless, you can still feel that summer was just around the corner. With that in mind, I started a quick pace. By 0820, we reached the start of river trekking. This for me is the most fun part of the trail! With all the river boulder stones of different forms I can’t help but leap, hop and skip my way on to the next one. Around 1000, we were welcomed by the calming beauty of Si-el Falls. Its intriguing form resemble what looked like a reverse ‘S’. Of course we have to continue all the way up to greet the soaring splendour of Ubod Falls. After 20 more minutes came the magnificence of Ubod Falls. I was stunned upon seeing it. We were stunned! All I can think of at that time was jump and fill myself with lots of cool water. I needed that to prepare myself for the steep ascent to summit.

the group while river trekking

Si-el Falls

group pic at Ubod Falls (credits to Ka Gerald Ternola)

Everyone took a quick dip and agreed to have our lunch beside the falls. Without a prelude, I fell asleep. Tired, invigorated and entranced from the sound of splashing water from the falls, accumulated to the group’s mini siesta.

Time check – 1330, we overslept. It’s a good thing because the sun was too much to take. With a heavy heart, we left the falls and continue with the dreaded assault to summit. 20 minutes to summit was a total despair. The grass and bamboos are burned making it harder to find the trail and even harder to breathe. Good thing Mang Jose had his ‘gulok’ with him paving our way to summit. Our rest totalled to almost an hour and by the time we reached the summit, our clothes are all dry.

me at Mt. Damas summit!

with my climbing buddies at the summit

While the sun is still up, we started pitching tent and prepare dinner by 1800. With little wind to lull us to sleep, I opted not to put my tent’s fly sheet to accommodate more air. We did not perform any socials that night due to exhaustion and by 2300, we announced lights out.

Wakeup call came early but my body is too worn-out to even move. It was 0600 when we heard clanking of cook set; it’s time to prepare breakfast.  After the energy-boosting meal and a modest photo opt, breaking camp came next. We commenced our back trail descent (it was a unanimous decision, by the way) by 0900. With the heat building up quickly, so was our pace. By 1000, we reached the river and after pulling away my backpack, I thrust myself to the inviting cold river. It was an Oasis!

The group decided to stay again for lunch at Ubod Falls and continue trekking by 1315. I pushed myself and made it to Papaac jump out by 1500. The sense of achievement was written all over our tired face. We made it!

Waiting at the jump off was our rented jeep. We left Barangay Papaac by 1700 and arrived at Camiling Public Market by 1800. After a 30-minute dinner to a nearby carinderia, we travel to Siesta by jeep. It was chaos down there given that it’s Sunday and all the commuters going back to Manila became our biggest competition.

Fortunately, a van stopped right in front of us and offered a ride back to Manila for 200 pesos. Who are we to argue with the price?! As the saying goes, beggars can’t be choosers and I believe that it’s a decent price. Thank God! By 2300, I was home, safe and sound.

Till then!